Books - Atelier Détails
Photography by Nita Kiem
In an era where social media has rendered the term "viral" overused, there's a distinct rarity in a small-batch designer gaining notoriety from just a pair of jorts, jeans, and a jacket. The intrigue surrounding the designer known simply as Books becomes more evident as one steps into the meticulously organized world of Atelier Détails.
The studio paints a picture of meticulous order—a neat office desk sits across from the entrance, adorned with sketches and concepts pinned to a corkboard against the wall. Vintage sewing machines are strategically lined along tables on one side, and a sizable rectangular wooden table at the center bears an uncanny resemblance to a high school art class setup. Rolls of denim fabric rest beneath, and on the back wall, a rack suspended from the ceiling showcases patterns and garments.
Books, the sole proprietor of Atelier Détails, greets us, clad in his distinctive attire—a pair of viral jorts, a white t-shirt, a black beanie, and white sneakers. One might assume a larger team orchestrating the success of this brand, especially considering its rapid ascent. However, Atelier Détails, for the most part, operates as a one-man show. Those fortunate enough to snag one of the limited drops can rest assured—it was crafted meticulously from start to finish by Books himself.
The commitment to slow fashion is palpable at Atelier Détails, where new pieces are not churned out in mass quantities daily but rather dropped every 2-3 months. This deliberate pace is a nod to an older approach to wardrobes—one of careful curation, investing in a few high-quality, albeit expensive, pieces. Books draws inspiration from this mindset, urging consumers to view the seemingly steep prices ($250 to $500) not as a deterrent but as an investment in enduring quality. Taking a retrospective glance at the past few decades, back to an era when wardrobes were curated with a focus on longevity. The prevailing culture of today—buying something new every week or two—stands in stark contrast to the values Books embraces. He envisions his creations as akin to a leather jacket, starting stiff and new but gaining character and history over the years.
Exposition
Books' foray into fashion was not a premeditated choice. A decade ago, if asked about his plans, he would have unequivocally stated a career in soccer. However, life took an unexpected turn when he injured himself in his last year of high school. Slowly but surely, his dream began to fade. Suddenly, he found himself in a place of uncertainty, questioning who he really was and who he was supposed to be. Soccer seemed like it might not work out for him, and considering it was his only plan, he was left in a bit of a crisis.
Inciting Incident
The transition began a few years ago while deeply immersed in fashion school in Montreal. The pandemic-induced shift to online classes during his graduation year prompted Books to reassess
his formal education. With only five months remaining until graduation, he found himself standing at a crossroad.
"It was only 5 months left, it doesn’t seem like a lot, but waking up every day to do something you don’t like anymore, it’s tough…I just wanted to work on my personal project."
Rising Action
In the world of structured programs and teachers simply doing their jobs, the real challenge, as Books sees it, lies in being unique beyond the classroom. Recognizing a lack of guidance for personal projects, he made the bold decision to drop out. The unexpected financial aid provided by the government during the pandemic became the catalyst for a personal venture. Crafting custom pieces for friends and family and showcasing his work on Instagram marked the inception of his journey.
"The early stages, it’s all in your mind; others can’t grasp it yet. Even my mom couldn’t see it, and that’s ok.”
The initial hurdles, where skepticism surrounded his endeavor, didn’t faze Books. He understood the typical trajectory of creative pursuits—visions often exist solely in the mind until they materialize. He acknowledges that what he's accomplishing now was a vision he had three years ago. He had this image of having a studio, his jacket hanging right where it was, and it seemed to have materialized exactly as he imagined it.
Dilemma
Then came the hype and the reassurance that he could do it. And instead of going with that momentum, he closed it all down for one year. A one-year hiatus from Instagram, a deliberate move to find the differentiator in an oversaturated market, ensued.
“You just need to be 3% different,” he emphasized. “I want to have the best product in the world. I’m going to have the best product in the world.”
He started his search with the fabric. “The best denim is Japanese denim and American denim. But I didn’t just want denim, I wanted raw denim. No processing, no pre-fading, no pre-shrink, nothing.” Using raw denim meant that each piece would age, fade in, and break in uniquely to the wearer, telling their own unique story.
Gesturing to the pair he was wearing, "These are my jorts. If I put it there to stand, it’s not going to stand on the floor anymore. I broke them in…It’s the raw denim experience, and you have to like it,” Books explained, referencing his TikTok viral stand-on-its-own jorts.
Books' attention to detail extends beyond fabric quality. Threads and stitches at Atelier Détails undergo rigorous testing, ensuring they withstand up to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Even the pocket
bags and labels are crafted from premium cotton. But Books doesn't stop there. Delving into a six-month mentorship with a denim artisan in a tiny studio filled with vintage sewing machines, he discovered a passion for craftsmanship.
Vintage sewing machines, with their inherent imperfections, became a focal point. Unlike modern counterparts that produce perfect stitches, each stitch on these machines is unique, adding a level of intricacy to each piece. For Books, the decision to be the best at one thing rather than good at many was clear.
Climax
"When I started, I could be good at a lot of things…But I decided to be the best at something rather than good at other stuff. So, for the moment, I just want to be the best denim brand."
As the conversation winds down, Books shares insights into his unique pair of inside-out jeans. Inspired by Coco Chanel's philosophy that the inside of clothing should be as beautiful as the outside, he prints on the cotton patch the words, "La Haine" on one side, and "L'Amour" on the other representing the duality of emotions. What started as a personal touch—meant for the wearer's knowledge alone—evolved into a trend, where people embraced wearing them inside out, adding an unexpected layer of beauty.
"Nobody is meant to see the inside of the jeans…only you know. When you’re wearing it, feeling fly, you know that you’re fly. People don’t need to tell you that you’re fly for you to be fly. It’s all about self-love you know. No else has to know. So when you’re wearing this, it’s like a special relationship between you and your jeans. But with time, it just became a thing and people started to wear it inside out, but it wasn’t the point. People decided to make it like that, and that’s beautiful.”
Amidst these distinctive features, Atelier Détails pays homage to often overlooked aspects. Double pockets and meticulous attention to usually unseen details define the brand's commitment to excellence. From packaging to presentation, each order unfolds a narrative through the brand’s story artfully presented as newspaper articles—a tangible embodiment of the brand's story.
To Be Continued…
Books' journey encapsulates a transformation—from a dedicated pursuit of soccer dreams to a realm where denim becomes a canvas for intricate storytelling. At Atelier Détails, it's not just about fashion; it's about the artistry, the enduring quality, and the narrative woven into each meticulously crafted piece. The details matter, and in Books' creations, stories are not just worn but lived.
For more, read Books’ story on our Instagram @KIEMCOLLECTIVE.
